‘The Substance’ Stirs Up Oscars Drama With Surprise Win and Backstage Fallout

Coralie Fargeat’s The Substance made history at the Academy Awards last night, securing the Oscar for Best Makeup and Hairstyling—a rare achievement for the horror genre. The win marks a significant milestone, as genre films often struggle to gain recognition from the Academy, despite their technical and artistic achievements. The award was accepted by Pierre-Olivier Persin, Stéphanie Guillon, and Marilyne Scarselli, but the moment was overshadowed by behind-the-scenes controversy surrounding hairstylist Frédérique Arguello, whose contributions were left unacknowledged.

The film, starring Demi Moore as Elisabeth Sparkle, a fading Hollywood star who turns to an illicit drug to regain her youth, has been lauded for its unflinching body horror and pointed social commentary on aging in the entertainment industry. While The Substance was also nominated for Best Picture, Best Actress, Best Director, and Best Original Screenplay, its sole win came in a category where horror films rarely find recognition.

Horror’s Rocky History at the Oscars

The Academy has historically been reluctant to honour horror films, making The Substance’s win all the more remarkable. The genre has seen only a handful of victories at the Oscars, with The Silence of the Lambs (1991) standing as one of the few to take home Best Picture. The Exorcist (1973) and Jaws (1975) also received major nominations but lost out in the top categories. In recent years, films like Get Out (2017) and Black Swan (2010) have challenged the Academy’s aversion to horror, but substantial wins remain rare.

This year, The Substance’s impact extended beyond its win, as Demi Moore’s nomination for Best Actress marked her first-ever Oscar nod. Many expected her to claim the trophy, but the award ultimately went to Mikey Madison for Anora, a decision that sparked debate among fans. Madison’s portrayal of a sex worker in Sean Baker’s indie drama was widely praised, but Moore’s supporters took to social media to express their frustration, calling her loss an example of Hollywood’s ongoing struggles with recognising older female actors.

The Controversy Over The Substance Makeup and Hairstyling Win

While The Substance’s win in the Makeup and Hairstyling category was a moment of triumph, it was quickly overshadowed by the omission of Frédérique Arguello from the credits. Arguello, who served as the film’s hair department head, was left out of the official nomination despite Mubi’s attempts to ensure her recognition. She claimed she was unfairly replaced in the credits by her assistant, Marilyne Scarselli, after leaving the project due to health and family issues. Scarselli, however, has disputed this, stating that Moore personally requested she take over hairstyling duties after an early mishap with a wig.

While Persin, Guillon, and Scarselli accepted the Oscar on stage, Arguello was notably absent from their speeches. She had previously been acknowledged at the BAFTAs and Critics Choice Awards, leading to speculation over why she was excluded from the Oscars nomination list. Backstage, Scarselli later thanked the “hair and makeup team” but stopped short of naming Arguello directly, adding further fuel to the controversy.

A Cultural Moment for Horror

Despite the behind-the-scenes drama, The Substance’s Oscar win represents a significant moment for horror films and practical effects artistry. Coralie Fargeat’s fearless vision, coupled with Demi Moore’s transformative performance, has proven that the genre can be both artistically ambitious and thematically rich enough to challenge Hollywood’s standards. The film’s brutal examination of misogyny and aging in the industry has struck a chord with audiences, and while it may not have swept the Oscars, its legacy seems assured.

With its international success and awards recognition, The Substance has cemented itself as a standout entry in the growing list of horror films pushing for mainstream respectability. Whether this marks a turning point for the genre at the Oscars remains to be seen, but for now, horror fans can celebrate a rare and well-deserved victory.

The Substance trailer